FAQs About Planting & Plant Problems

NO! No, but seriously, good ecological garden design is an educated blend of of art and science and relies on an understanding of site conditions, as well as short and long range goals. Matching the right plant to the right place is essential to long range success and that matching can't happen over email or in a sales area over a cell phone photo that shows just a snapshot of what is happening in a space. We recommend that you explore the Planning Your Garden Page of our website where we have done our best to provide extensive resources and tools to help you research and plan. We are always happy to answer questions about plants and our experiences with them and are also happy to help you find a professional to assist with design if your project goes beyond your DIY ambitions!

Dig a hole just slightly largely than the plant's root ball. Be sure that the top of the plant is level with the ground - you don't want the plant set too low in the ground and you do not want the top sticking out of the ground. Do not add any soil amendments or other products, just put the soil you dug out right back in. If the weather has been dry it is a good idea to water the planting hole and let water sink in before placing the plant. Then water again deeply once placed. Be sure to tamp the dirt in carefully around the plant, you want to make sure that you are not leaving any air pockets around the plant!

See above! The only thing you should be putting in the planting hole is the soil you just took out of it. If you are worried that the soil is poor then it is important to select plants that are adapted to thrive in those types of conditions. Picking the plant for the place not changing the place for the plant is the root of resilient gardening. 

Yes - and no. The idea that all potted plant roots balls should be broken apart before planting is a myth that took a good idea to an extreme. If a plant is extremely root bound the roots should be teased out from the ball. This is especially important for trees and shrubs. It is important to note that a plant can be - and should be - very well rooted but not root bound. If the roots are wound around and around and around at the bottom of the pot, these are roots that need to be pulled apart before planting. If they are not rootbound, then don’t touch them. You’ll do more harm than good by pulling at tender, young roots. This tip will save you time - and will save some plants! 

YES!! All plants will need watering until established. Hand watering is strongly recommended. Be careful to water the plant at the roots and not from above. Water deeply - for the first week you may need to water every day, after that every few days should be fine, but again you want to water deeply and check the soil to ensure it is not drying out too much. You will need to use some educated judgement here adjusting for weather conditions and soil type, it is not a one plant fits all strategy, which is one of the reasons why hand watering is recommended over irrigation systems.

Celebrate that your new ecosystem is already supporting life! More than 95% of insects in our area are beneficial, let them do their jobs. READ MORE ABOUT THAT IN THE ARTICLE HERE. 

Nothing! The aphid eating good bugs won't show up unless there is something for them to eat. The best pest control is a healthy ecosystem - double down on building it - READ MORE ABOUT THAT IN THE ARTICLE HERE!

While every patch with native plants helps, there are many important interconnected actions that create landscapes that are usable for an array of fascinating pollinators. We encourage you to spend time exploring the resources on our website for ideas. And, be sure to check out the Xerces checklist for pollinator habitat on the page HERE. 

Deer are very regular visitors to our yard as well. We have watched many generations grow up here. As a result of deer pressure in the area we tend to plant only those plants that have decent resistance to deer browsing and ones that actually benefit from some trimming from herbivores (bush honeysuckle is one example). We do cage newly planted shrubs and small trees for the first few years to allow them to become well established. We do not use any sprays because of the impact that may have on the pollinators who use scent to find certain plants. The best advice we've ever read on this subject comes from Nancy Lawson "the Humane Gardener" - she says it all better than we ever could, so recommend you read "Deer Eat this Garden and it Flourishes". A quick "Google" search will unearth countless deer resistant plant lists, but be advised that no plant is truly deer proof. 

Our goal is to create thriving habitats at home. Habitats include animals of all sorts. We have bunnies hopping every which way here, but they don't bother the "garden" plants all that much, in large part because they are busy and content feasting on clover and lawn weeds! Our favorite, helpful, article on the subject of bunnies comes from Benjamin Vogt - we hope it helps! On Rabbits and Salad Bars in Suburbia. 

Since we personally plant berry bushes specifically to feed the birds, we are probably not the best people to provide the kinds of answers you are looking for. But, one trick we've heard and used is to pay really careful attention to when the berries are beginning to ripen. Harvesting a day or two too early will yield you a better crop than waiting a day or two too long. Birds have an uncanny ability to know when fruit is ripening. 

None

Compost and fallen leaves and other organic matter left to do its job in your native plant gardens!

Serious vegetable gardeners may need some organic fertilizers - this is not our area of expertise. But we highly recommend visiting the Barrington Farm School to learn more about organic, regenerative farming.  

We personally plant densely enough that mulch is seldom needed. We also leave the leaves year-round and that is great free mulch! For the occasional time or place that mulch is needed we recommend and use Buckwheat Hulls.